Friday, June 25, 2010

Sarah Burton for McQueen Menswear Spring/Summer 2011

Back in February, the greatest designer that the world have met, died. Now four months after, the Gucci Group is trying to keep his legacy alive (and also the incomes), so now, McQueen's fashion house is directed by Sarah Burton, who was his right hand since 1996. So her turn came and she presented her first collection, showing the house aesthetic.

The show was named "Pomp and Circumstance", it has some nice elements like high collars, morning suits, jackets (that was always a key piece in McQueen's). Of course it was not going to be the same, Burton might has worked for 14 years with Lee, but they would never thing the same way. I liked the collection, it reminds me a little bit of his work, but it's not the same. She's on a really hard position, everyone's waiting to see what' she is doing, if she's going to do it right or if she's going to mess it up.

In my opinion, the collection lacked of Alexander's theatricality, it was not enough with a gold brocade coat (which I loved) and some "smoky" coats. There were good pieces, unusual silhouettes, puffy sleeves... But there's something that I must recognized in her work, as Tim Blanks said: The truest reflection of the McQueen heritage was the sense of a story being told: Burton's interplay between aristo and working-class rough was the latest chapter in a book started nearly two decades ago."

It would be a matter of time and everyone's looking forward to see her work. She has potencial and she has the knowleadge to be leading the McQueen house, and maybe that's why I think she fits in this position, but we'll see...

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